SABINA TRAVELOGUE PART 20 - April 9 - Pasquetta Perfetta with Friends in Fiumicino

Monte Terminillo in the Appenines above the Reatine Plain. courtesy Wikipedia

The rain storm that began Sunday afternoon continued well into the evening. All through the night frosty winds howled angrily through the twisting cobbled streets of the borgo threatening to unhinge any persiane, or storm shutters that were not properly locked and even loosen some of the old terracotta roof tiles. It was like the last jealous rampage of the god of winter. When we woke up this morning the rain had stopped, the Sabine sun was out, and Monte Tancia (1292m), Monte Pizzuto (1288m) and other mountains to the east of us were crowned with white snow... 

It is a gorgeous day... a perfect day for a new adventure, a great meal, and a lot of fun. Today we are off to Fiumicino to have a fabulous home-cooked  Roman lunch with our friends the Fidales. I checked Facebook to see in there were any last minute instructions.

Fiumicino, Isola Sacra and the mouth of the Tiber and Lago Traiano courtesy RaBoe/Wikipedia

Facebook Post from Massimo: Pasquetta perfetta.......

- amici perfetti e amorevoli James, Richard, Candace, in un clima di allegria e spensieratezza, dove per un giorno non c'era spazio per i cattivi pensieri, ma solo per l'amicizia e la fraternità: Pranzo : antipasto di formagi e confetture, salami affumicati, e prosciutti, bagnato con prosecco di Valdobiadene Mionetto; rigatoni alla amatriciana; carciofi alla giudia; abbacchio al forno alle erbe del giardino di Massimo, con patate arrosto; cazzimperio di finocchi, ravanelli e cuori di sedano bianco con olio della Bassa Sabina; il tutto innaffiato da un buon Brunello di Montalcino del 2004; per dessert, crostata alla marmellata di arance , fatta in casa e di nuovo prosecco; caffe e grappa barricata…

Grazie amici miei.................

Whoa! Now that is a menu to look forward to!

Enigmatic Monte Soratte on the hazy horizon

Easter Monday, or Pasquetta, is a holiday in Italy. The rain washed streets were deserted except for a few storm weary cats who were sunning themselves on various perches along our route. The population of Casperia grows to its largest, it seems, during the Easter long weekend. Houses which are normally shuttered and empty exuded tantalizing aromas of Pasquetta family breakfasts. There was no one in the town square, in fact the bar where we were to buy our bus and train tickets was closed... "Oh!..." Hmmmm. What to do? Oh well, we thought there had to be a way of paying by cash and patiently waited for the 9:15 bus which had been listed on the Cotral website that would take us to meet the 9:40 train from Poggio Mirteto that would take us to our friends' place in Fiumicino. 

As we waited, Candace and Richard made friends with a beautiful cat who was sunning himself in front of the post office. 

Kitty Telepathy???

I have to say it is hard to miss Vancouver when you are in a place like this, but I think we both wake up in the middle of the night and automatically reach out our hand to pat our cat Smokey who is thousands of miles away in Vancouver. 

Smokey, asleep, at home in Vancouver, who may or may not be dreaming about us in the Sabina.

I know he is safe, but I miss him... Every time we stop to talk to or pat a cat here seems like our attempt to telepathically pass on a hello or a friendly scratch or a pat to our furry boy.

 

It was getting very close close to 9:15 and there was still no sign of the bus to Poggio Mirteto, although a bus going to Roccantica had passed by going the other way earlier. I began to get worried. 

Earlier an older gentleman in a stunning Tuscan yellow sweater had walked by... It seems that he and his wife were looking to see if the flower shop was open, but it wasn't. He noticed we were looking a bit worried and we explained we were waiting for the bus to the station but that it looked like it was going to be late, or not come at all. He conferred with his wife and they said, "Please, come with us." Once again we were rescued by the kindness of the local people. We piled into the car, thanking them profusely. 

These kind and generous people were from Montasola, a town completely in the opposite direction from our destination, Poggio Mirteto Scalo. They weren't just going 20 minutes out of their way... they were going 40 minutes out of their way. We apologized (like Canadians do) saying that we had checked the schedule online but that the bus hadn't come. Our rescuer said, "But this is Italy. This kind of thing happens often." From there the discussion turned, as it inevitably does, to the state of the economy and the low esteem most Italians seem to have for their politicians... "Ladroni! Thieves, every one of them!" 

As the discussion progressed our driver got more agitated and drove faster and faster often turning around while driving at full tilt to look at me to emphasize something he was saying. This type of driving makes me nervous in Canada, where we have straighter and wider roads and where most people obey the speed limits, but what could I say? We were careening down narrow country roads way over the speed limit because these people were trying to rescue us from a missed train. Every second counted... I must admit that when the opportunity presented that I closed my eyes... I was that nervous.

Luckily, we arrived in time and all in one piece. Breathlessly, we thanked our gallant rescuers and ran for the train, or at least Candace ran for the train, and we ran to buy tickets at the station bar. When we ran back to the overpass to get to Binario 3 we expected Candace would be there waiting for us, but she had actually taken the wrong turn and was behind us. We made it to the train okay (there were lots of seats) but the run and the stress gave Candace an asthma attack. Poor thing, she coughed most of the way to Rome. 

While Candace recovered a couple of seats away, and Richard dozed, I stared out the window at the changing scenery. Rome is an amazing city, but it does not show its best side toward the train tracks. 

This image is "borrowed" from viewfromatrain.wordpress.com

Most of the buildings are covered in graffiti, most of it inane, some of it striking in its artistry, most of it in support of or calling down some soccer team or other. What is truly beautiful to see from the train windows are the splashes of brilliant crimson from the Roman poppies that grow in wild profusion along the train tracks. In full sun these floral displays are truly stunning.

The train wended its way through Rome. As we passed through Trastevere I gave a call to Massimo to let him know we would meet him at the Parco Leonardo station about ten minutes later. 

One of the truly delightful things about Italian culture is that when friends meet, no matter which gender combination, people kiss each other. On seeing each other, there were loud shouts of Candace! Massimo! Richard! James! and we were embraced by Massimo in turn, and kissed on each cheek, first the left, then the right. This is something I know I will miss in Canada... Then again, perhaps we should insist on popularizing this elevated aspect of Italian culture in our cold northern country. Somehow I think that this would help the tomatoes in our little garden on Hawks Avenue to ripen better. We'll start off with Smokey and go from there.

Massimo whisked us off on a wonderful tour of Fiumicino, first taking us through the beach area with all it's wonderful apartments. We got out of the car and took a couple of pictures of the Tyrhennian Sea... "Over there, Sardegna!" 

A lot of Fiumincino is built on an an artificial island called Isola Sacra created at the mouth of the Tiber in imperial times. Rome's more ancient port, Ostia, was built on the south branch of the Tiber. As the need for a larger port grew greater, the republican era Ostia was superseded by a newer, larger Imperial operation called Portus which was built on the north side of the Tiber. Roman remains from this period can be seen all over Isola Sacra. 

Massimo took us through some beautiful countryside along a tiny road to show us the remains of the old Roman necropolis which grew up alomg the road linking Ostia and Portus. 

  

 

Photo courtesy of Massimo Fidale

Photo courtesy of Massimo Fidale

Photo courtesy of Massimo Fidale

As we ooohed and aaaahed and took pictures of the ruins, nearby an elderly gentleman showed a younger women how to search for wild chicory long the road.

Hunting for wild chicory

From there Massimo drove us to his house where his wife Paola and his daughter Diandra were waiting for us. Their house has a lovely garden with olive trees, a lemon tree, even some kumquat trees. 

Both the lemon and kumquat trees were covered with fruit. The house inside was of course beautiful, the walls covered with some pretty amazing art including a number of pieces that Massimo had painted. 

Appetiser course. When Massimo said we were going to make a mess, he was prepared with large bibs!

Our focus of the day though was la cucina which was large and welcoming. The lunch we were served was phenomenal... 

Richard is almost overcome by the heady aroma of the Amatriciana sauce.

 

Richard and Paola hamming it up!

Candace and Diandra

From the appetizers to the pasta and mains and then the dessert, everything was typically Roman (with a few Sabine touches like Sabina D.O.P. Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Pasta all'Amatriciana). It was an amazing feast. 

Cin cin! Alla famiglia! Photo courtesy of Diandra Fidale

Time constraints don't allow me to recount every delicacy we were served but I have to say, that among all the incrediblydelicious things that were we're treated to, the menu item that will stick out forever  in my mind were the Jewish style deep fried artichokes.

Chef Massimo preparing the Carciofi alla Giudia

The Master at work! Such concentration!

This particular way of preparing and serving artichokes is peculiar to Rome and apparently originated in the Jewish community there. I have been to Rome a number of times and have always wanted to try them but have never had the opportunity.

The sharp tips are carefully trimmed and the inedible choke scraped out. Washed, and then carefully dried, the roman artichokes are plunged into boiling oil and deep fried and then served lightly salted.
 

Photo courtesy of http://www.alimentipedia.it/carciofi-alla-giudia.html

The outside leaves are crispy golden brown while the inside is perfectly cooked and sooo delicious. Pure heaven! The artichokes were a definite highlight to a menu that was so carefully selected and lovingly and proudly executed... Veramente indimenticabilemente buoni! 

This was our first time to be invited into an Italian family's home. It was a huge honour. Their warm welcome was humbling. The hodgepodge of English and Italian conversation interspersed with joking, singing and laughing was hilarious.

 

Carmen Miranda's Siamese Twin brothers! What a bunch of hams!

The rest of the afternoon was spent talking about all sort of things both inside the house and out in the golden Roman sun. At times, various friends and relatives dropped by to say hi. More wine was drunk... the best Italian red I have ever set my lips to... Grazie Massimo! Then it was marmalade tarte for dessert, coffee, and grappa... And then, sadly, it was time to leave.

On our way out Massimo and Paola presented us with a bag of their freshly picked lemons... 

Their scent was so intoxicating that Richard got a litte carried away.

It was very hard to say goodbye. Even though we know we will see Massimo and Paola and their family again before we leave, it was very hard to go....

The Fidale family home, designed and built by Massimo

Paolo and Massimo saw us off at the train station. We were sent off with huge and kisses (and warnings to be careful about certain people on the train). 

As we rode the train east through Rome and into the Sabine hills once more the sky turned a shade of lavender casting a surreal light on the rows of umbrella pines that marked our route back home. 

Photo courtesy of Alessandra Finiti

The bus ride from Poggio Mirteto was crazy as usual. I wonder what Canadian bus drivers would think of the circuitous roads their Italian counterparts have to negotiate at high speeds every day...

What an amazing day. We have to thank so many people... from the truly wonderful couple from Montasola who drove us to the Poggio Mirteto Station, to our hosts, the Fidale family: Massimo, Paola and Diandra. Grazie di cuore per un giorno veramente indimenticabile.

Casperia, by Giorgio Clementi

 

SABINA TRAVELOGUE Part 3 - March 22, 2012 - To Roma and Back

So, what a day we have had so far... This morning we got up bright and early to take the 9:00 o'clock bus to Poggio Mirteto Scalo to catch the train to Roma.  

Map of Ancient Imperial Rome

First we had a quick peak at Facebook and were delighted to see that Alessandra had posted some pictures of our visit to Poggio Mirteto with her from yesterday. Boy, am I glad we dressed up! The pictures were great... I love the one of Richard and I walking in a line followed by a Mirtense cat. Grazie Alessandra!

The first picture of our Trip to Sabina posted on Facebook - Courtesy of Alessandra Finiti

Our plan was to come into Roma and meet our friends Ken and Steve then head to the rent-a-car agency at 8B Via Po to pick up our car, and drive back to the Sabina. 

A daily morning scene in Casperia - People waiting for the bus in front of the Banco Etruria and Alimentari

Many Asprese commute to Roma to work and there are many people taking busses from around 7pm. There were still a few waiting for busses at 9:00. We got on the bus with our BIRG Pass which allows unlimited travel during the day on the train and bus routes of Lazio... 

This is quite a deal for stranieri like us who tend to want to get off and on a number of different busses and trains in a day. We saw the train to Rome pull in to Poggio Mirteto Stazione as our bus arrived. 

Poggio Mirteto Scalo Station courtesy of Alessandra Finiti

Thinking that we might miss the train, we took a run for it and jumped into one of the cars. Who should be sitting in the seat across from us but Arianna Ceraola, our friend who picked us up at the same station the night we arrived late from Frankfurt and drove us to Casperia! She was heading into Rome with her mother to see her husband Domenico who was in the hospital to have an operation on his eye... Domenico injured himself in a freak accident playing rugby... Anyway his operation was today and Arianna and her mother were on their way to visit him in the hospital.

Arianna's mother is studying English with a tutor. We had a great conversation about a number of things which was eventually joined by a lady named Grace (who had lived for a number of years in California and whose children were American by birth) and another man across the way... The discussion turned to the pros and cons of living in Italy or the USA and it got quite animated... One major issue discussed were the roads in Italy. Grace argued that things were better in America where the roads were straight and wide and there were freeways. The man across from us liked things just the way things were. The next subject talked about was the expansion of the T.A.V. high speed train in Northern Italy. This topic is very controversial. We had noticed anti-T.A.V. graffitti here and there. The discussion on our train to Roma got quite heated. Richard loves to see the passion of the Italians when they get loud and animated. For him, it was a riot. For me, I must admit, I was a tad nervous...  Either way, it was a memorable entry into Roma on the train. 

Before anyone could come to blows, we arrived in Trastevere Station. and walked around for a while to find a Wind Store where we bought our cell phones. We then headed back to the station and caught the No. 3 bus to the Circus Maximus between the Aventine and Palantine Hills near where Steve works at FAO. 

The Palatine as seen from thebus stop in front of FAO.

Steve met us at 12:00 and we walked to the Trattoria all'Aventino restaurant at the foot of the Aventine where we were joined by Ken. I had a great salad of bresaola, rughetta (wild arugula), and parmigiano and a plate of gnocchi with ragù. Richard had a dish of bicoloured pasta with peas and ham and a cream sauce that was very good. A flask of local vino rosso, acqua frizzante and an espresso completed the menu. 

In the course of our discussion over lunch I discovered to my horror that I had left my International Driver's License back in Casperia. I was not looking forward to the prospect of having to return the next day with my license to pick up the car and thus lose a day of driving through the Sabina.

Via Salaria in red

In the end I needn't have worried. After a circuitous route that included subway and bus and walking in the wrong direction a couple of times and finally finding the place, the agent didn't even ask to see the I.D.L. What a relief!

As you can well imagine driving in Roma can be a bit daunting. I have done it before but somehow I was more worried this time... If we could get to the Via Salaria, the highway that follows the ancient (close to 3000 years-old) Sabine salt trade route from the coast to the Apennines, I knew I could find my way from there. Though Roma itself is not that well marked, I knew all I had to do is follow the signs for Rieti, the capital of the province and other signs would show me the way. 

The one problem we did come up against was that often the signs were not visible on the winding roads until too late. Or sometimes there are so many signs jumbled all together in no particular order (at least not alphabetical) that it is hard to read them while driving through an intersection. 

I made one false turn at an intersection that took us on a very roundabout route via Fara in Sabina, the venerable Abbey of Farfa, and through a number of beautiful hill towns including Poggio Mirteto and then Cantalupo, before finally reaching our home away from home, Casperia.

We drove into the parking lot, tired but happy and then thought we would go to the alimentari to get some Prosecco, eggs, and white wine... But when we got there we noticed the store was closed. They are closed Thursday afternoons. We thought, oh well, Domani, and as we turned to go, we heard a familiar voice say (in Italiano) "What do you need?" It was Irene, (pronounced "ee-ray-nay") one of the owners packing her car in from of the store. We said, "It's okay. You are closed, we can come back tomorrow." Irene said, no, Massi (Massimo) her husband was inside and it would be okay... Like good Canadians we said, "It's okay. See you tomorrow", but she insisted and called out to her husband and opened the store for us. They didn't have to... We are after all a captive market in that there is no other stores where we could buy what we were wanting. We would come back the next day anyway because Conad—the name of their store—is the only option. But this is the way, of this part, of the Sabina at least... Massimo greeted us with a smile, asked us about our day, and got stuff for us from behind closed counters. It was a 9.50 Euro purchase, and they opened the store for us.

Church of the Annunciation near Casperia's car park.

We headed up the hill, bathed in the glow of the kindness and hospitality of our Asprese hosts. 

As we headed up the hill, we bumped into Franco, one of the owners of Gusto Al Borgo, the Agriturismo just out of town that we ate at twice three years ago, at which we plan to relive our tradition of a glorious Easter lunch. 

One happy Canadian guy at Gusto al Borgo on Easter Sunday, 2009

Franco and his wife Paola have apparently opened a small restaurant inside the town. We asked when it was open. We're they open tonight? Franco said, Certo, and that he would meet us in the piazza at 20:00 and walk us to the restaurant on Via Massari. So that is our plan for tonight. There goes the diet. Oh well... Domani!!!

::::::::::::

"Danger Will Robinson!" As I mentioned earlier, we bumped into the owner of Gusto Al Borgo, Franco, on the way into Casperia this evening... We found out they were open this evening and decided to go tonight... 

A dinner or lunch at Gusto Al Borgo, now inside the town walls on Via Massari, is worth the airfare from Canada, Eh, Richard? Franco and his chef/wife Paola recently opened the in-town version of their stellar agriturismo/restaurant in a recently and exquisitely restored house in Casperia. 

Let me cut to the chase... A decanter of their house red is placed on our table, followed by a salad of radicchio, walnuts, blood orange with a peperoncino balsamic reduction... This is quickly followed by a fried polenta sandwich with cheese and mortadella inside. Next came a plate of beautifully deep-fried artichokes and zucchini blossoms stuffed with cheese and anchovies... 

Two very happy Canadians in Casperia, March 2012. Thank you Paola and Franco!

The stars of the dinner, secondo me, were the spinach and ricotta gnudi on a tomato concassé. Ask Richard; he will tell you. This was followed by a plate of fettuccine with meat ragù... Then the main course of veal cutlets fried in sesame with zucchini fritters.... Richard orders a second bottle of wine... Franco obliges... Then dessert... Tiramisù... and generous portions... Followed by espresso and, my favourite, Laurino, a home made liqueur of bay leaves that I remember very fondly from our last visit three years ago... I think we are through, but no, Limoncello is brought out... I am not sure if this is proper Italian, but I call out to Franco, "Franco, e' permesso di essere cosi' felice?" I hope so... 

Cincio, keeping an eye on the customers

For all you cat fans out there, the restaurant has about six cats. One female tabby, Cincio, was quite friendly. I miss our cat Smokey... A presto.